Day 3: Rolling hills into Rioja (Puente la Reina to Logroño)

Distance: 49.6 mi / 79.8km

Climbing: 4544 ft / 1385m

Today was another scorcher with temperatures in the high 90F (35C+) and little shade. The path was a nice variety of rolling dirt routes, with a little pavement in and out of the towns. It was my longest day so far, and also had the easiest and steepest trail sections to date.

Most of today’s route would be best ridden with a mountain bike with front suspension and disc brakes. Even some local cyclists with this setup avoided the last section of trail from Los Arcos to Viana, opting for the parallel road instead. With the right setup and mad skills, you might be able to ride the full thing, but most likely you’d be riding 90-95% of it and walking a few short sections, and unhappy or scared at others.

I’m amazed at the amount of dust on everything. I oiled my chain this morning, at lunch, and again when returning today. The dust seems to dry everything out within a few hours.

A few highlights include picturesque smaller Camino towns along the rolling hills, the famous bridge in Puente la Reina, crossing a Roman Bridge, the wine fountain at Irache, and entering the Rioja region right before Logroño.

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Famous bridge at Puente la Reina

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Climbing the path out of Puente la Reina

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Roman Bridge in need or repair. This was the first place on the path so far where I had to carry my bike for a short section.

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Narrow & rugged stony paths shared with walkers. Glad to have good brakes and a bell. I mounted the bell upside town near my brake lever, so I could tap it while descending. I found I used it much more than when it was more in the center of my bars.

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Church in Villatuerta

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Countryside near Estella.

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Every pilgrim needs this photo.

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Napa Valley Bike Tour water bottle feels right at home in Navarra.

 

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Path near the area of the cover photo of Hiking the Camino guidebook

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Assessing the dust in Los Arcos

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What were they thinking when they paved these trails?

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10% grade between Torres del Rio and Viana. Steepest part is around the corner.

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Collection of personalized cairns.

 

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Relaxing in the shade at a public park in Viana